The date December 26, 2004 brings back to me sad memories of the tsunami which killed Per Goodman, a Danish national who with his wife Merete, a Danish Architect,A? built the Star Dust Beach Hotel in Arugam Bay.
It was a tragic day for more reasons than one. The love and care he gave his wife and his employees vanished. He gave top priority to the wellbeing of the downtrodden in the locality. His kindness and large heartedness brought him fruitful results in the management of his hotel. He was very close to the Muslims and Tamils of ArugamBay and Pottuvil who loved him very much and still mourn his death.
As a very close friend of his, I was fascinated by his strong work ethic. I would watch him serve his guests, while always finding time to talk to his foreign guests and explain to them the necessity to work when his workmen were absent due to ill health. He taught his staff the dignity of labour. The magnitude of his magnanimity can be assessed when you hear many people in Arugam Bay and Pottuvil talk of his contribution to their development.
Coming from a Danish background, he adopted well to the contrasting life style of his workers and neighbours who took to his kind and gentle ways. He would always discuss with his staff how best to satisfy his guests. He would listen to what they had to say and work on the best solution to any challenge. He always wore a smile, never complained, went out of his way to help others, never indulged in self pity and above all he loved to see others doing well. His wife with Goda??s help survived the tsunami.
Stardust Beach Hotel has the finest accommodation at Arugam Bay, on Sri Lanka’s stunning east coast. Stardust is situated between Arugam Bay beach and a large lagoon, with all the best surf breaks within easy reach.
East Coast Surf
Sri Lanka’s east coast gets swell from the southern Indian Ocean, and is best from May to September when the prevailing wind is offshore every morning. The beach break in front of the Stardust Hotel can be OK for body surfing, but the best waves are right-hand point breaks.
Well-known Arugam Point (“The Point”) is a 15-minute walk from the hotel. Pottuvil Point and Crocodile Rock (“Croc Rock”) are less than 30 minutes away in a local ‘tuk tuk’. Several other points can be reached by road.
The main building at Stardust Beach Hotel was designed by architect and owner Merete Scheller, and completed in 2005. The spacious double rooms include private bathroom, telephone, fridge and your own terrace with views over Arugam Bay. Comforts include quality mattresses, mosquito net, ceiling fan and natural cooling from the delightful sea breeze.You can go surfing, relax on the beach, watch the fishing boats or shop in the local market. Visit some of the historic temples near the village, or check out the lagoon where elephants have their evening ‘shower’. Do a day trip to Lahugala National Park to see wild elephants, or visit Yala National Park, which is home to an astonishing range of birdlife.
Tour Packages
Atoll Travel can book a stay at the Stardust Beach Hotel, whether you’re looking for a low stress surf holiday or a relaxing stopover on a tour around fascinating Sri Lanka.
Stardust Beach Hotel is situated in the east coast of Sri Lanka, close to Pottuvil. This area is considered one of the 10 best surfing destinations in the world. The east coast is at its finest between May and November when it is ideal for surfing.
Perched at the end of the bay the Stardust Hotel sits between the lagoon and the Indian Ocean. Stardust offers comfort, cleanliness, excellent food and a genial atmosphere. There are three classes of rooms (Beach Cabanas, Double Bungalows and Deluxe Rooms) with comfortable mattresses, mosquito nets and overhead fans. They also have a private terrace or balcony with a sea or garden view.
The Stardust is famous for its sumptuous Sri Lankan and international cuisine that includes delicious home made ice creams and cakes. Meals are prepared using fresh vegetables from the local market and seafood brought right to the doorstep by local fisherman. A selection of wine is also on offer.
Arugam Bay is considered one of the top ten surf destinations in the world and the surfing season here, starts in May. There is a beach break in front of the Stradust Hotel that is good for body surfing and beginners. Three of the better point breaks for surfing A?a??a?? The Point, Pottuvil Point, and Crocodile Rock are all within an hour from the hotel. Bicycles and canoes are available for those interested in exploring the nearby lagoon areaA?a??a??s natural wilderness that is home to monitor lizards, birds, and monkeys. The hotel is also located close to the ancient jungle shrine of Katragama, as well as the Yala and Lahugala National Parks.
I had lunch at the Star Dust, Arugam bay on the 14th of December It was quite amazing. The chicken salad is dressed in yogurt, which is really well complemented by soft, succulent stalks of asparagus, and sautA?A?ed mushrooms. It is attractively plated, as you can see, with a topping of julienned Tomatoes. I only had one dish here on this visit, but I look forward to more.
On Thursday, I had lunch at the Star Dust, Arugam Bay.
The new restaurant, at that little chic inn, which is set up like a cafe, is a little aways from the sea, understandably.
It is very well decorated, and my chicken salad was terrific.
I’ll blog that later, right, I want to enjoy the beautiful, whimsical cruet set that was set up on the tables.
I was happy to add it to my collections of salt and pepper cruet set photos, which is growing quite nicely, I think. Allegra sale toronto
#01 StardustPaxil avoidant personality disorderBuy lisinopril side is the very first Hotel you come to after crossing the Bridge and as you enter Arugambay. Hence we indexed Stardust No. #01.
But in any case “Stardust” has always been the “No. 01” address at the Bay, offering the highest class of hospitality available in the entire area.
When the late Per together with Merete settled in Arugam Bay this Danish couple established without any doubt very high, fresh standards of hospitality at Arugam Bay.
For many years the well run Stardust was just like an oasis in this very remote enclave.
With only a few highly original, but low budget establishments such as #05 Beach Hut, #45 Sooriya’s and #58 Rupas around in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s #01 Stardust’s high class, international cuisine together with a dozen or so perfect, ultra clean rooms firmly established Arugam Bay on to a global map.
Suddenly there was a place in town not just for surfers, but for demanding world travelers!
A man with a vision, a true pioneer, Per Goodman continued to develop his great resort until the end; of 2004. Stardust gained and maintained the reputation of being the finest Restaurant in the East, offering good local and always perfect International dishes in a beautiful location and setting near the large lagoon.
The Hotel’s own web site, designed by the late Mr. Philip has for many years been described as a ‘good source of information’ about Arugam Bay and the surrounding area.
Again, even the site was ahead of its time and rightfully still holds the No. 01 position on Google.
Check it out with the link below!
We are finally in the village of Arugam Bay. There are no real luxury hotels in the town, but that’s a part of the charm and some would say an opportunity waiting to be seized. It’s a big long weekend on the island and many city folk will descend on ABay to party. The tourists also come from around the world
Arugam Bay is the most popular tourist destination in the east of Sri Lanka and is a premier surfing and chill location for the young at heart. For me, it is a good three-day visit only, but I don’t surf, sunbathe or spend much time on beaches. Oh yes, I’m over fifty years old and don’t want to wrinkle.
Berlitz Pocket Guide covers “Abay” in only 65 words. I have spent a week in the area and made about ten short visits to this hippie-style location .
We set off at seven a.m. from Colombo and expect a six-hour journey to the ABay. It would, however be a couple of hours longer across the west to east of the country. We get on the expressway heading south till it finishes, then a short dual-carriageway. Then a fast empty road, all with changing scenery from arid areas, then a green lush landscape with lakes. With the changes come the herds of goats, then buffaloes walking in the water, and lots of thin white cattle in the middle of nowhere. This part of the road is so straight, the trees are planted in uniform spaces to create a guard of honour for the traveller. It reminds me of France with rows of plantanes [ trees ] said to give assistance to Napoleon’s troops moving in different weather conditions. These trees today are thought to be responsible for one in eight road accidents in France.
We are finally in the village of Arugam Bay. There are no real luxury hotels in the town, but that’s a part of the charm and some would say an opportunity waiting to be seized. It’s a big long weekend on the island and many city folk will descend on ABay to party. The tourists also come from around the world, it’s common to see lots of Israelis who have just completed some military service and time to surf. They like the surf, beaches, the low cost of living, laid back style, with few rules and not a policeman in sight.
The first time I was here was two weeks before the Tsunami in December 2004, and I recall staying at Stardust Hotel and canoeing along the river. Sadly, the hotel and the town were hit quite hard by the Tsunami, both losing lives.
The town is now a thriving tourist location in the surfing season.
Look out for the red British telephone box, ask for Fred, in the building behind. You will get the whole history of the town from wartime to the latest locations and things to do locally. I have had the opportunity to launch two of my books in the town. At the allotted time to start, I had about ten people at the book launch. One hour later, there were fifty hitting over eighty. Everyone is laid back, even the people who live there. It appeared that unbeknown to me, at my book launch, was a Russian female karaoke performer and a fully tattooed character was also strutting his stuff. Welcome to Abay! I had catered for forty people. The night goes on, and I find myself as the impromptu conga player in an ad-hoc band till the early hours of the morning, playing with a bunch of strangers .
The next day we have the opportunity to visit Kumana National Park, but I’m keener to enjoy some of the sea views and visit a few nearby temples than visit a bird sanctuary. It’s also about thirty kilometres from the hotel, my beach is in front of me, and my first temple, which is dated as 2nd BC, is 4 kilometres away. The location is on a very wide beach, and its history is linked to Princess Devi being washed up at the location and a temple being built. This is one of a few locations around Sri Lanka of such incidents .
Jezzabel, the wife, finds some friends who are staying nearby in another hotel, and they take a jeep and head to the park. Jokingly, on their return, I make a jibe about “How were the birds?” I’m bombarded with how great their safari was. This included sightings of two different leopards, an elephant charging their jeep, and many other non-bird species.
There are always some new openings, bars, restaurants, shops and hotels to try on the strip at Abay. On our next trip, we are taking some foreign foodie nuts who want to have cooking lessons. I may take some of my wines and do some imaginary pairing.
One thing we never say is, “It is the off-season.“ It’s true that there is the surfing season between May to September, the shoulder months however have good weather and then the wettish so-called monsoon season. This is when Abay is at its quietest. There may not be the hustle and bustle, and some shops could be closed, but it’s still worth putting on your tour of this amazing island if you have the time.
Russian karaoke singer, a book launch, wine tasting and the tattooed man: The Whinging Pome at the Arugam Bay
Jezzabel and I set off at 8 AM from Colombo and expect a six-hour journey to get to Arugam Bay on the east coast of Sri Lanka but with non-stop driving. I know it won’t be six hours even though Jezzabel has packed enough egg sandwiches for a full day family bus trip.
Our Muslim driver Neaz is not a “speedy Gonzales” but we must thank god it’s not a Friday with prayer stops. We get on the expressway, heading south till it finishes, then take a short dual carriageway, then a fast empty road to our destination, The scenery is changing from arid areas to a green lush landscape with lakes, lagoons, and stunning views. With these changes come the herds of goats, then buffaloes walking in the water, back to herds of thin white cattle that remind me of cows I’ve seen in parts of India. In the middle of nowhere, the road is so straight and the trees are planted at uniform spaces, creating a guard of honour for the passing traveller. It reminds me of France with plantain trees which were said to give assistance to Napoleon’s troops moving in difficult weather conditions. These trees today are thought to be responsible in some way for one in eight road accidents in France.
We are finally in the village of Pottuvil, taking sharp rights and lefts through shanty houses in a strong Muslim area, then to Jetwing Surf, which is ten minutes from the more famous Aragum Bay. You can’t surf in front of this hotel as it’s too rocky and rough, and I ask the manager “so where do I surf?” Looking me up and down with some doubt about my surfing profile he says “a few minutes away.”
Whenever anyone uses the phrase “a few minutes away”, I’m always sceptical. In India, this can mean an hour.
“Is this running, walking or driving?“ I retort.
We don’t get to the recommended beach but in fact, some people rank this area as one of the best surfing locations in Asia during May to September, along with other locations of some fame such as Whiskey Point, Crocodile Rock and Elephant rock.
This is a very modern beach hotel with a funky reception area, a collection of circular chalets, and an open dining area overlooking a curved pool and the sea. The chalets are large and extremely well designed with lots of space, a big bed and a chilled outdoor bathroom.
The criticism we had heard of the hotel prior was that there is no air conditioning. As I pass the back office of the reception I see a mobile aircon unit and it’s not long before it’s in our chalet, with three fixed fans on full blast. My princess, Jezzabel likes a room ice cold when she gets to bed. I generally have to extensively cover myself as its too cold for a white boy from Africa. It’s good that we are all different but our different requirements for bedroom temperature generally results in me having less sleep and constant phlegm. Too much detail you may say, but bedroom temperature disputes amongst couples are more common than you think.
It’s a long weekend in Arugam Bay and likely the last of the season. Those who are here are from Colombo to enjoy the beach and party, or others who have just forgotten to go home. Some belong in the “unwashed” category. The last time I was here was two weeks before the Tsunami in December 2004. I recall staying at the Stardust hotel and canoeing along the river. Sadly the hotel and the town were hit quite hard by the Tsunami, both losing lives. The town is now a thriving tourist location, though given it’s post-COVID, it’s hard to spot many foreign tourists. Those that are here have likely exceeded their visa period and have no desire to go back to their home countries, which are still being hit hard by the COVID phase two.
Jezzabel is off to the “Hideaway”, one of the few larger hotels in the town. She is meeting girlfriends and to listen to their local heart-throb. Actually, Jerome is a Sri Lankan Aussie as is my wife. I’m off to Siam View, an institution here in the town and well known across the island to all who have visited A-Bay, as some call it. Fred, the owner has been in Sri Lanka for over 35 years, gives me a warm greeting. I’ve known him for twenty years. Fred has had a colourful life with a Maltese/ German background but always comes over as a carefree Englishman, with ten or more kids, I’m not sure he knows the exact number. His Thai wife is a really lovely lady who always has a beaming smile and a friendly greeting. His property was hit by the tsunami but Fred bounced back into business very quickly. It is the go-to place, everyone meets there and there is never a dull moment with music, musicians, karaoke etc.
At Fred’s place, I encounter a rather opinionated and overweight Ex British navy chap who says he is a secret squirrel working for the British Government, tracking undesirable Sri Lankan’s who are trying to get into the UK illegally. Exiting from the conversation as quickly as I could without being extremely rude I meet up with some friends.
Amazingly I find a wine I’ve never seen before, a Malbec blended with Pinotage, a great wine for the price. When I get the bill for the wine there is some mix-up, and the barman/waiter seems to have over-charged me. He is so laid back, he is nearly horizontal, and a few sharp words follow. We will meet again tomorrow.
Night two and its the launch of my book on the east side of Sri Lanka, “The Whinging Pome – To The Point.” The venue is Fred’s place, Siam house.
I check if all my wines are here where I left them the night before, in the fridge. They are all there and I explain to the barman how the night will flow and what his role will be. It is 7.30 PM and my guests are meant to all be here. I ask Fred for the list of attendees, and he gives me some 36 names. I ask how many have confirmed, and he tells me none, which he says is typical of the folk in A-Bay. At eight my first attendee arrives. She is a Russian karaoke singer in a short white dress who tells me she sings every night at the place. My second attendee, or so I thought, is a partially clothed white man who tells me his body is tatted from head to toe. Turns out he works part-time at Fred’s place.
Its 8.30 PM and as Fred had promised a crowd has arrived. A bigger issue for me then became the fact that the barman had gone AWOL, turns out he didn’t like my comments from the night before had walked off the job. At 8.30 PM I’m sharing the podium with the Russian whose dress only just covers her boobs, the tatted man whom I think believes he is a rockstar, my book display and a set of drums.
It’s my first book launch/wine tasting where I’m pouring the wine, serving it, and talk at the same time.
The Whinging Pome’s Random Rule No 185: Learn how to multitask. Prove the ladies wrong, men can do it!
Despite the chaos, I sell about 15 books, 5 to the local MP’s son. Not sure if he was sober. If he was then no doubt he would want them for free. A bunch of airline pilots who have just had their employment contract cancelled are hitting the wine. We have now over fifteen nationalities at the event. In between all of this I need to get the next wine out.
The Russian lady in white is bashing out a Russian song. By ten-thirty the numbers have swelled to beyond sixty people. I’ve got a deaf, out of tempo chap on the drums and the Russian lady giving it her all whilst trying to keep everything in her dress. The night continues with more book signings and characters now believing they are at a full Karaoke event grabbing the mike, whilst random people think they are Ginger Baker, the drummer of the bands Cream, Blind Faith, Hawkwind and more.
This I think is a new book launch concept; Books, Ballards, Booze, Boobs.
The next day we have the opportunity to visit the Kumana National Park but I’m keener to enjoy the beach and visit a few temples than visiting a bird sanctuary. It’s also about thirty kilometres from the hotel and my beach is in front of me and my first temple which is dated at 2nd BC is 4 kilometres away. The location is on a very wide beach, and its histhttps://thewhingingpome.online/russian-karaoke-singer-a-book-launch-wine-tasting-and-the-tattooed-man-the-whinging-pome-at-the-arugam-bay/?fbclid=IwAR186xAXgXlyiqA9LwCJa7sixdAk6TsAGNkWxnPX8yP7PgBU6V68oqiG6Egory is linked to Princess Devi being washed up at the location and some monastery being built. This is the third location in Sri Lanka where this same story is set.
Wifey finds some friends who are staying close by in another hotel and they take a Jeep and head to the park. Jokingly on their return, I make a jibe about “how were the birds?”. I’m bombarded with how great their safari was. This included sightings of two different leopards, an elephant charging their Jeep, and lots of other non-bird species.
So it’s another day, another road, and we are heading to Batticaloa. I don’t think this town is ready for The Whinging Pome but actually, after the Arugam Bay experience, anything and everything is possible.
Therea??s not much toA?ARUGAM BAYvillage itself: just a single main road running parallel to the beach dotted with guesthouses, cafA?s and shops, including some of Arugam Baya??s trademark quirky homespun architectural creations a?? rustic palm-thatch cabanas, teetering treehouses and other quaint structures (not to mention the distinctive wooden pavilion restaurant and red British telephone box of the landmarkA?Siam View Hotel ).
TheA?beach is now looking better than ever following recent clearances during which the authorities ordered the removal of all buildings within 20m of the waterline (albeit at considerable cost to local hoteliers and other residents, who were forced to watch as the government bulldozers rolled in and summarily razed significant slices of prized real estate).
A-Bay also marks the rough border between the Sinhalese-majority areas to the south and the mainly Tamil and Muslim areas further up the coast, and boasts an unusually eclectic but harmonious mix of all three ethnic groups a?? as well as a growing number of Western expats. Fears that the villagea??s uniquely (for Sri Lanka) alternative and slightly off-the-wall character will be erased by larger and more mainstream tourism developments remain, however, especially given the forthcoming opening of the newA?Hambantota airport, which will make the village significantly easier to reach for international visitors. For the time being, however, Arugam Bay preserves its own enjoyably eccentric charm.
ARUGAM BAY AND AROUND
EasygoingA?Arugam Bay is by far the most engaging of the east coasta??s resorts. A-Bay, as ita??s often known, has long been popular with theA?surfing fraternity, who come here to ride what are generally acknowledged to be the best waves in Sri Lanka. Ita??s also a good launching-pad from which to explore the gorgeous surrounding countryside and its varied attractions, from the elephant-richA?Lahugala National Park and the little-visitedA?Yala East National Park to the atmospheric forest hermitage atA?Kudimbigala.
SURFING AT ARUGAM BAY
With waves fresh from Antarctica crashing up onto the beach, Arugam Bay is sometimes claimed to be one of the top tenA?surf points in the world, and periodically plays host to international tournaments. TheA?best time for surfing is between April and Oct/Nov.
WHERE TO GO
There are several breaks close to Arugam Bay, plus others further afield. The biggest wavesA?in A-Bay itself are atA?The Point Continue reading ‘Rough Guide to AbaY’
If beach access is important to you, youa??re in luck. Arugam Bay has a number of beachfront hotels and cabanas.
List of phone numbers
Scroll down to the bottom of this page to see contact information for a number of hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka. This is a list of phone numbers that I compiled myself, walking from one end of the main drag to theA?other.
I was following in the footsteps ofA?Fred Netzband-Miller, who did the same walk every year from the 1990s through the summer of 2011. Notes Fred, a??We did a similar exercise, walking from bridge to bridge and taking photos of every sign we could spot. The results for previous years are on ourA?home page, and therea??s a condensed version on Picasa.a??
Incidentally, I might have missed a place or twoa??some areas close to the beach are literally honeycombed with affordable places to staya??but these phone numbers will save you a lot of grief if you arrive without a reservation.
Built in 1979, Fred Netzband-Millera??s Siam View Hotela?? Arugam Baya??s oldest surfer hangouta??survived the 2004 tsunami with aplomb. It was voted the Best British Pub in Sri Lanka in the Telegrapha??s 2010 Best of British Awards. The Siam View is known in the surfer community for its great food, cold beers, convivial atmosphere and strong wi-fi signal.
Start thinking ahead
Arugam Baya??s surfing season runs from April through October, when rooms can be hard to get. This magnet for diehard surfers has barely enough guest beds to accommodate everyone who drifts in here at the height of the season, when visitors can outnumber the year-round residents.A?It pays to make your reservations well in advance, especially if youa??re thinking of staying at a popular place like the Siam View Hotel, which starts filling up early in the season.
Some of the places on the beach have their own websites, but most dona??t. Use the contact information Ia??ve provided below to call and find out whata??s available, when, and for how much. And if youa??re calling from overseas, check the current time in Colombo before you call. That way you wona??t disturb these guys in the wee hours of the morning.
No street numbers
Youa??ll notice there are no street numbers in the list below. Arugam Bay is a lot like Carmel, California, in this regard. I have simply listed the places as I found them, working my way down from the north end of town, a little ways south of the bridge across the bay. Ia??d like to say Ia??ve listed the hotels in their exact order, but thata??s probably not theA?case.
The type and cost of accommodations vary widely in Arugam Bay. You could chill out in a pleasant no-frills beach cabana for a few dollars a night, or opt for plush digs costing more. Either way, make your reservations in advance.
Two-lane blacktop
Since the places Ia??ve listed are on both sides of the Panama-Pottuvil road (the two-lane blacktop that runs south from the small town of Pottuvil to Arugam Bay, and that some have cheekily taken to calling Main Street), Ia??ve divided the list into two sections, east andA?west.
When it comes to giving directions to addresses on coastal roads, Sri Lankans rarely refer to the points of the compass. Most people tend to describe a house or a place of business as being either on the a??land sidea?? or the a??sea side.a?? Thus, my eastside listings are for places on the sea side of the road, and westside listings are for places on the landA?side.
Youa??ll be fine staying at a place on the land side of the road. All it really means is that youa??ll need to schlep your board across a two-lane blacktop to reach the beach. Therea??s not much traffic other than the occasional three-wheeler driver sputtering by, sounding his horn apropos of nothing.
Sri Lankans describe the location of a house or hotel as being either on the a??land sidea?? or a??sea sidea?? of a coastal road.
Dona??t forget toA?ask
Surfing fanatics, like those pioneering Australians who camped out here in the 1960s, probably wona??t care as much about creature comforts as they do about riding the waves. But Ia??m guessing this wona??t be the case for everyone.
This is so obvious that ita??s barely worth mentioning, but Ia??ll say it anyway: Make sure you verify that your room comes with what you absolutely cana??t live without. Most surfers are cool with spartan accommodation, but if youa??re finicky about things like an attached bathroom, air conditioning, hot water, clean sheets, fresh towels, laundry service and free wi-fi or whatever, you should ask about them upA?front.
The Arugam Bay infrastructure is a work in progress. The good news is that ita??s being upgraded. That said, you may experience the occasional power outage or find yourself without water on tap for an hour or two. If you stay at a hotel that has a power generator and its own water supply, this wona??t be an issue. Youa??d have to pay more for such amenities of course, butA?hey.
Food for thought
Ita??s the same with restaurants. Most hotels in Arugam Bay have restaurant facilities, and a few offer the whole enchiladaa??fine dining with polished silverware, spotless napery, romantic lighting and a decent wineA?list.
On the other hand, if youa??re determined to spend as little as possible on food and accommodation so that you can splurge on three-wheeler scooter taxi rides to the fabulous surfing spots around Arugam Bay, you can definitely do that,A?too.
Fact is, if youa??re on a limited budget and youa??re just here to surfa??and dona??t care much about where or what you eat, as long as it tastes OKa??Arugam Bay has plenty of street cafes where you can gorge yourself into a stupor on $5 a day. If thata??s the case but you still believe as I do that civilization began withA?the invention of the fork, Ia??d advise you to bring along a supply of clear plastic cutlery.
Facing south on the Panama-Pottuvil road: Staying at a place on the land side of this road shouldna??t impose too much of a hardship on you, since all it means is that youa??ll need to tote your board across a street about as wide as Pacific Avenue in downtown Santa Cruz, and not quite as busy. By the way, I love thisA?sign.
A note on the phone numbers: If youa??re calling a number in Arugam Bay from anywhere in Sri Lanka, you need to first dial 0 (zero), just like you need to first dial 1 (one) when dialing a number in a different area code in California. So if youa??re in Colombo and youa??re calling the Siam View Hotel in Arugam Bay, for example, youa??d dial 0773200201. But if youa??re calling the hotel from, say, Santa Cruz, youa??ll need to add the two digits for international direct dialing plus the two digits for the Sri Lanka country code (94) and dial 01194773200201 instead. In other words, youa??ll need to insert four digits (1194) between the zero and the rest of the number. If youa??reA?calling from overseas, make sure you look up theA?current time in Colombo before you call, to avoid disturbing these guys in the middle of the night. Ia??ve already added the zero to the numbers listed below, so dona??t go adding another one.
Rooms, beach cabanas and hotel accommodation on the eastside:
Stardust Beach Hotel (18 rooms, villas and cabanas): 0632248191 (sstarcom@eureka.lk)
Paradise Sand Beach Hotel: 0632248513 and 0776313725A?(info.paradisesand@gmail.com)
Blue Ocean Cabanas: 0771759619
The White House: 0776013895 and 0776925119
New Tri Star Beach Hotel: 0632248454
Deana??s Beach Hotel: 06779584308 and 0771272869
Sea Rider Bed and Breakfast: 0777719954 (islanddreams171@yahoo.com)
Sunrise Beach Hotel: 0632248200
Bay View Hotel: 0714832122
Orient Beach Rest: 0776683623
Arugam Bay Surf Resort: 0632248189
Del Mar Hotel: 0712950109
Gecko Restaurant and Rooms: 0632248212 and 0771591265 (info@geckoarugambay.com)
Rupaa??s Beach Hotel (13 rooms, 10 cabanas): 0632248258
Siam View Hotel (four rooms): 0773200201 (arugamsurf@gmail.com)
Sashini Beach Resort: 0726047113
Lahiru Place: 0779005322
Tharaka Beach Hotel: 0633631763 and 0779649566
Freedom Beach Cabanas: 0771759620, 0772317057 and 0779621823 (freedombeachcabanas@gmail.com andA?freedombeachcabanas@hotmail.co.uk)
Coco Bay Hotel: 0632248510
East Surf Cabanas: 0775402481
Rooms and hotel accommodation on the westside:
Alaska Hotel: 0776994581 and 0778433504
Hangout Hotel and Restaurant (two rooms): 0724906874 and 0722894429
Ithara Hotel: 0724518014 and 0724518014
Sri New Dilshan Guest House: 0754713591 and 0634909535
The Danish Villa: 0776957936
Seatop Hotel: 0633632202 and 071820065
Fantasy Hotel: 0778743578
Farhath Guest House: 0770454552
The Green Room Beach Cabanas: 0771929956
The Pacific Hotel: 0632248340 and 0777515243 (abaypacifichotel@gmail.com)
Tri Star Beach Hotel: 063224840
Hideaway: 0632248259
Surf n Sun: 0776065099 (surfsaman@yahoo.co.in)
Sooriyas Hotel: 0632248232 and 0776683892 (info@sooriyashotel.com)
Zim Bay Hotel: 0775395822 (zim.bay@yahoo.com)
Palm Grove Holiday Inn (18 rooms): 0632248457, 0773544281 and 0773878007 (palmgroveholiday@gmail.com and holidayinn.arugambay@gmail.com)
Kumudu A.G.A. Ariya Beach Hotel: 0632248017 and 0770571946
Note that this is not a complete list of hotels, beach cabanas and other lodging available in Arugam Bay. Ia??ve only listed the places for which I could find phone numbers (that is, the actual phone number of the hotel itself and not that of a tour operator). If these places have their own websites, Ia??ve provided links to them. Ia??ll keep adding stuff like their email addressesa??plus the number of rooms and cabanas they have availablea??when I get this information. I couldna??t find contact information for Seashore Beach Resort, Aloha, Meenaa??s, Ever Green Cabanas, Hummus Bay and Kudakalliya Guest House, so I didna??t list them.A?If you own or operate a place in Arugam Bay and have been left out, email your contact information to callander@gmail.com and Ia??ll add it to thisA?list.
Copyright A? David Graham
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Arugam Bay got it all: Traditional Fishing, a 'Baby Pool', The Main Break, Wild life and a bit of Night Life
by Robert Carroll
More than a year since the end of the civil war between the government and the Tamil Tigers, surfing is beginning to blossom in Sri Lanka. Arugam Bay, one of the countrya??s finest surfing spots, hosted the Sri Lankan Airlines Pro Surf tournament in June.
It was a great success. Arugam Bay Order chloroquine phosphateconsists of a handful of villages on the east coast of the island with the nearby town of Pottuvil providing the bulk of accommodation and supplies.
A few days ago, while perusing Surfermag.coma??s bulletin board for news, and doing some research for the New York Times on Tsunami survivors, I found the post that Tanner at Reef posted about Marcelo Bengoechea. Marceloa??s brother Fernando, a well-known New York photographer and an adventure travel addict went missing in Sri Lanka after literally being hit while sleeping in his bungalow at the Stardust Hotel in Arugam Bay. As many of you may know, Fernando was staying at Arugam, a place with an excellent series of right hand waves, with Nate Berkus a?? Oprah Winfreya??s favorite interior decorator.
Here are excerpts of the conversation. Marcelo by the way, is the creative director at Reef Brazil. If anyone reading this is in Sri Lanka, and can help him find his brother, youa??d sure go a long way in bringing some peace to a hell of a nice guy, and a mightily distraught familya??A?Chris Dixon
From Marcelo Bengoechea:
a??Fernando, hea??s a fashion photographer and lives in New York. Does interiors and location photograpy. Hea??s very well known. Hea?? s done a lot of lifestyle shots for Reef too. Not the girla??s butts, but the product shots.a??
a??He was in Sri Lanka staying at the Stardust Hotel in Arugam Bay. The place is very well known and has an excellent righthand wave. One of the latest issues of Transworld Surf says a??Big Sri Lankaa??, and they talk about that place in particular. The website of the resort is www.arugambay.com.a??
a??He was on a vaction trip. Hea??s not as hardcore a surfer as me a?? so he doesna??t have to carry a board with him wherever he goes, but if there were waves, Ia??m sure he was surfing.a??
a??He planned to be in Sri Lanka for Christmas and New Years. Ia??m not sure if hea??d actually been there before. Hea??s been a photographer and an adventurer a?? hea??s traveled extensively to very remote locations. I dona??t know anybody who has traveled more than my brother, and I know a lot of surfers. Hea??s got so many free air miles, he was always going places.a??
When asked what Nate Berkus had told him, he replied:
a??I actually talked to Nate. They were swept away by the wave together. From his own mouth, he told me that they were woken up in the water. They were staying in a bungalow right on the beach. They were hit first and got swept out, and between the first and second wave, there was about a 20 second lapse and they were able to grab onto a telephone pole. They thought, a??ita??s over, ita??s overa??, and thata??s when the second wave hit them. Nate was able to climb onto a roof and my brother was swept into the lagoon and the jungle area.a??
a??The hotel was on a strip between the ocean and the lagoon. My brother was swept over into the lagoon and thata??s the last time he was seen. His friend was lucky enough to have been in an area with an international cellphone and they were able to start a search.a??
a??Authorities are searching for everybody they can find alive. I contacted a person whoa??s looking exclusivelly for my brother. Hea??s in the area doing that. The search only happens during the day. Therea??s no power, no electricity, no lights and no communication. The guy has a satellite phone and Ia??m doing all sorts of research on the Internet. Ia??m pretty much putting as many descriptions on as I can. I went on CNN and they work worldwide. Thata??s why I put the posting on Surfer too. Maybe international surfers who are in the are, or who have been therea?? Ia??m just reaching out to surfers. I assume that maybe if you even have a surfboard in that area youa??ll paddle around and look for my brother. Ia??m just reaching out to as many people as I can.a??
When asked how he and his family was holding up, he replied:
a??Ita??s tough. Being so far away, therea??s not much you can do aside from watch TV and the Internet. We all come from Argentina. My family is there. I have a sister and another brother, but Fernando is an American citizen, which helps the search. Wea??re just all in touch as much as we can be. We believe in him. Knowing Fernando a?? hea??s a great athlete a?? surfer, scuba instructor. Physically, hea??s able to do whatever it takes. Hea??s been to remote locations and gone feral a number of times. We believe that if he did not die from the power of the wave, he might be lost in the jungle and unable to communicate. Hea??s strong, hea??s smart and he knows survival techniques well enough that he could survive in the jungle. Thata??s an isolated area. Therea??s just nothing around there. So we have every reason to hope.a??
a??You know, ita??s a crazy story when you actually know someone who has been in that situation. Ita??s unbelievable. I still dona??t believe it.a??
If anyone has any leads, Marceloa??s email is: marcelo.b@reef.com. Otherwise, send a prayer his way.
Sri Lanka is studded with sunny beaches. If you want to enjoy a beautiful sunset, sipping a drink made of tropical fruits on the sandy beaches, listening to the music of rising and falling waves lapping on to beaches, Sri Lanka offers all that and much more.
One is sure to get enthralled by the serenity and the tranquility of beaches of Sri Lanka. Arugam beach of Sri Lanka also features as one of the most fascinating beaches of the country. Arugam Bay is located about 314 km from Colombo, a beautiful bay with good surfing opportunities. The East coast offers infinite possibilities for all kinds of water sports and underwater photography.
Underneath the Bay lie the many ship-wrecks of the coast which pose a tempting challenge to the diver. If you are interested in water sport activity and surfing then Arugam BayCephalexin without a prescription is definitely the place for all wind surfers. Arugam Bay is on the list of the top ten surf points in the world. Situated on the South East side of Sri Lanka, Arugam Bay receives the same Antarctic winter swella??s that hit Indonesia in the middle of the year. The best time of the year to visit this exquisite beach is between May and November when the predominant wind is offshore for at least the first half of the day. At this time favorable conditions are found for surfing. Arugam Bay also has a Continue reading ‘Arugam beach A surfera??s delight (Saudi article)’
It seems that a new hotel/restaurant is being build on this beautiful coconut estate.
Overlooking the Indian Ocean, facing the Bay of Arugam.
According to local contractors and workers, #01 Stardust owners are branching out to this new location. Other say, an English family are behind this development.
Great spot! Where else on this island could such a fine, unspoiled location be found?
Arugam Bay is on the list of the top ten surf points in the world. Situated on the South East side of Sri Lanka Arugam Bay receives the same Antarctic winter swell’s that hit Indonesia in the in the middle of the year. The best time of the year is between May and November when the predominant wind is offshore for at least the first half of the day.
Man wolle Hotelschulen im Norden und Osten errichten, haben die Regierungsplaner in Colombo versichert; aber auch, dass es fA?r die nA?chsten Jahre Arbeitsvisa fA?r Hotelpersonal aus dem Ausland geben solle.
Weiter sA?dlich, in Arugam Bay, unserem letzten Halt an Sri Lankas neuen BadestrA?nden, haben die Bewohner eine andere Vorstellung von Entwicklung. Die Bucht gilt als Traumziel fA?r Surfer. Nach dem Tsunami sei dort, zwischen Wald und Mangroven, schon einmal ein Luxusresort geplant gewesen, erzA?hlen Urlauber am Strand. Doch durch das UnglA?ck der A?berschwemmung fand eine besondere Gemeinschaft ansA?ssiger Tamilen, Singhalesen und Muslime mit zugereisten Natur- und Wassersport-Freaks zusammen und verteidigte die einfachen Familienhotels und den Charme des Ortes gegen die drohende Konkurrenz. FA?r ihr BemA?hen, auch die Armen in der Region am Einkommen aus dem Tourismus zu beteiligen und einen Teil der Einnahmen in den Erhalt der Mangroven zu stecken, bekam die Gemeinde 2007 einen Preis des Londoner World Travel Market.
In Arugam Bay werden Besucher nicht mit Jeeps, sondern hoppelnd mit dem Tuktuk zum Krokodilfelsen kutschiert, der hinter einem Dorf mit dem schA?nen Namen Panama in einen ruhig daliegenden See ragt. GrA?ngrA?n gehen Kulturlandschaft und Wildnis ineinander A?ber. Man kann beobachten, wie Reisbauern und wilde Elefanten voneinander ebenso respektvollen Abstand wahren wie die wagemutigen Jungs mit ihren Fischernetzen und die Krokodile, die am Ufer lauern. Es beginnt zu dA?mmern, und in der Stille schieAYt der Satz wieder ins GedA?chtnis, der auf dieser Reise mehr als einmal gefallen ist und jedes Mal erschrocken zurA?ckgenommen wurde: Wenigstens habe der Krieg die Natur vor dem Tourismus bewahrt.
………
Auf der Suche nach dem alten Ceylon
…im einst beliebten “Stardust” in Arugam Bay….
19. Dezember 2009, 06:12 Uhr
Wer jetzt die Insel im Indischen Ozean besucht, kann ihre unglaubliche Vielfalt in Ruhe genieAYen. Das wird sich aber wahrscheinlich schon bald A?ndern, hofft – und fA?rchtet – Bernd Schiller.
Kandy, die letzte KA?nigsstadt, ist berA?hmt durch den Tempel inmitten des Milchsees, der einen Zahn Buddhas bergen soll.
Foto: Bernd Schiller
Der Blick aus dem ersten Stock des kleinen Hotels wird von A?ppigem GrA?n gefesselt. Nicht mal bis zum Meer reicht er, obwohl die sichelfA?rmige Bucht mit ihrem tropischen Traumstrand nur rund hundert Meter entfernt ist. Zu eng hat sich das Dickicht der Palmen und PapayabA?ume, der BA?sche und Blumen zwischen Hotel und Wasser geschoben: Bananen, Hibiskus, Frangipani, Bougainvillea, Orchideen, alle vor zwei, drei Jahren angepflanzt und Monate spA?ter dschungelartig explodiert.
Schon einmal hatte Christl Wildschek, die A?sterreichische Besitzerin dieser gepflegten Ayurveda-Anlage im SA?den der Insel, sich hier einen Garten Eden geschaffen. Das war im Dezember 2004, wenige Tage bevor im Paradies die HA?lle ausbrach. Der Tsunami, der am 2. Weihnachtstag vor fA?nf Jahren rund um den Indischen Ozean Hunderttausende tA?tete, spA?lte auch ihr neues Haus fort und, weitaus schlimmer, die Existenzgrundlagen unzA?hliger Menschen an fast allen KA?sten Sri Lankas. Christl Wildschek packte an, half, wie so viele aus dem Ausland, lieAY Schulen wieder aufbauen und ein Waisenhaus errichten.
Im Herbst 2006 erA?ffnete sie ihr “Austrian Ayurveda Resort”. Aber dann schossen und bombten tamilische Rebellen und die Regierungstruppen diese traumhaft schA?ne Insel wieder alle paar Wochen in die Schlagzeilen der Weltpresse. Da nA?tzte es wenig, dass der langjA?hrige BA?rgerkrieg, der schon einmal, nach dem Waffenstillstand von 2002, A?berwunden geglaubt war, fast nur im abgelegenen Norden und im Osten tobte. Die Touristen, vor allem aus Deutschland, mieden Sri Lanka als Reiseziel. Nur das Prinzip Hoffnung hielt die meisten Einheimischen und das tapfere HA?uflein der deutschen und A?sterreichischen Hoteliers vor Ort aufrecht.
Die Fischer am Strand bei Bentota sortieren ihre farbenfrohen Netze. Hier an der WestkA?ste lebt der Tourismus langsam wieder auf.
Foto: Bernd Schiller
Noch stehen, vor allem im SA?dwesten, Hunderte Tsunami-Ruinen unter den Palmen. Noch liegt Kriegsschrott an manchen Orten der touristisch nahezu unerschlossenen OstkA?ste. Noch nerven wichtigtuerische Polizisten an zu vielen Checkpoints. Und noch wollen selbst manche Einheimische dem Frieden, der im Mai ganz offiziell zwischen der Regierung und der tamilischen Terrortruppe LTTE geschlossen wurde, nicht so recht trauen. Zu frisch sind die Wunden. Aber zugleich macht sich immer mehr Optimismus bemerkbar. Sri Lanka, so wirkt es, lA?chelt wieder. Mit Macht und neuen Ideen will die schA?nste Insel des Indischen Ozeans zurA?ck in die Kataloge, zurA?ck in die Herzen ihrer frA?her so zahlreichen StammgA?ste.
So freut sich etwa Nicole Wittersheim, Senior-Managerin fA?r Asien bei Thomas Cook und Neckermann, A?ber deutlich zweistellige Zuwachsraten in jedem Monat seit dem Kriegsende: “Vor allem Rundreisen sind plA?tzlich stark gefragt. Es scheint, als ob die Leute wieder neugierig auf das schA?ne Land hinterm Strand sind.” Das AuswA?rtige Amt hat die Reisewarnungen deutlich herabgestuft.
Nimmt man nur die natA?rlichen Ressourcen, macht es kein anderes Tropenziel dieser GrA?AYenordnung – Sri Lanka ist gerade mal so groAY wie Bayern – seinen GA?sten so leicht: eine Landschaftsvielfalt, die auch Rundreisende beim zweiten und dritten Mal A?berwA?ltigt, zahlreiche StrA?nde von einer SchA?nheit, wie sie die SA?dsee, die Karibik oder auch Bali nur an sehr wenigen Orten zu bieten haben, dazu lebendige StA?tten einer jahrtausendealten Kultur. Sri Lanka, frei A?bersetzt “das strahlend schA?n, kA?niglich leuchtende Land”, verzaubert seine Besucher seit Marco Polos Zeiten, und Hermann Hesse geriet 1911 bei der Ankunft in Colombo ins SchwA?rmen: “Es ist das Paradies, wahrhaftig, es ist das Paradies …”
Er ist fast 90 Jahre alt: Kellner C.C. Kuttan hat im legendA?ren Hotel “Galle Face” schon KA?nige und Prinzessinnen aus aller Welt bedient.
Foto: Bernd Schiller
In den antiken RuinenstA?dten im heiAYen Herzen der Insel staunen die GA?ste bis heute A?ber gewaltige Kuppelbauten und anrA?hrende Buddha-Statuen. Auf dem Weg dorthin oder in die Berge, vorbei an WasserfA?llen, dichtem Dschungel und an einem Teeteppich, der weite Teile des Hochlands bedeckt, lebt noch das alte Ceylon. So hieAY die Insel bis 1972, so heiAYt ihr weltberA?hmter Tee bis heute, und so nennen viele Alte ihr Land noch immer.
Zwar sind Arbeitselefanten, die bis vor wenigen Jahren beim Holztransport eingesetzt wurden, aus dem StraAYenbild verschwunden, aber WasserbA?ffel ziehen die HolzpflA?ge durchs Reisfeld, wie sie es immer taten. Hin und wieder hA?lt noch ein Ochsenkarren die Autos auf der LandstraAYe auf. Und in den DA?rfern schlingen sich die MA?nner einen Sarong um die schmalen HA?ften, seien sie buddhistische Singhalesen, hinduistische Tamilen oder Moors, die muslimischen Einwohner der VielvA?lkerinsel.
Die Suche nach dem alten Ceylon lA?sst sich auch im Katalog buchen (“Auf die feine englische Art das Leben der Teepflanzer von einst nachempfinden”) oder mit der Wahl entsprechender Hotels erfolgreich gestalten. Zum Beispiel im “Galle Face” zu Colombo, wo der Chefkellner eine Art Ikone ist. Beide sind legendA?r: das A?lteste Hotel Asiens, 1864 gegrA?ndet, dessen Veranda zum Sonnenuntergang der Kultplatz fA?r alte Ceylonfreaks ist, und C.C. Kuttan, der kleine Mann, der in ein paar Wochen neunzig wird und sich gleichwohl jeden Morgen A?ber fA?nf Kilometer aus seinem Viertel auf den Weg zur Arbeit macht, zu FuAY!
Seit gut sechzig Jahren bedient und begrA?AYt er die GA?ste im “Galle Face”. KA?nigen und Prinzessinnen aus aller Welt und dem Kaiser von Japan hat er die TA?r geA?ffnet, der Aga Khan hat ihm ein besonders A?ppiges Trinkgeld gegeben; Lord Mountbatten, der Weltkriegsheld der asiatischen SchauplA?tze, Prinz Philip, Pandit Nehru und spA?ter dessen Tochter Indira Gandhi … Kuttan hat sie alle getroffen. William Holden, dem Hollywoodstar, hat er oft und gern den Whisky nachgeschenkt, als der hier wA?hrend der Dreharbeiten zur “BrA?cke am Kwai” logierte.
Mancherorts verdrA?ngt das moderne Sri Lanka das alte Ceylon zwar reichlich drastisch, aber nicht immer erfolgreich. So haben Investoren ins Zentrum von Kandy, der letzten KA?nigsstadt, die berA?hmt ist durch den Tempel, der einen Zahn Buddhas bergen soll, ein Betonmonster gesetzt, eine Shopping-Mall, deren LA?den auch nach einem Jahr noch nicht einmal zur HA?lfte vermietet sind. Nebenan aber, auf dem bunten, lauten und sehr orientalischen Markt, tobt das Leben wie eh und je.
Volker Bethke, ein Hamburger, der frA?her als Kaufmann und Berater weltweit tA?tig war, kennt sie dort alle: Sunil, den schlitzohrigen BetelblattverkA?ufer, Abbas, den stillen Anbieter von Trockenfischen, Ajith, den GewA?rzhA?ndler, der immer den neuesten Klatsch erzA?hlt. Volker Bethke fA?hrt in dieser Stadt, abseits vom Trubel und mit Traumblick auf den grA?AYten Fluss des Landes, seit 2003 das Hotel “Villa Rosa”, sechs Zimmer nur, rustikal eingerichtet und mit einer Philosophie ausgestattet, die ihm schon drei GA?stebA?cher voller Komplimente eingebracht hat. Oft setzt er sich zu den GA?sten und schlA?gt AusflA?ge vor, ins Dorf der Trommler, ins Teemuseum, zu den Zeremonien im Tempel. Und natA?rlich immer wieder zu seinen Freunden auf den Markt.
Manchmal fA?hrt der Hamburger an die OstkA?ste. Dort, im einst beliebten Hotel “Stardust” an der Arugam Bay, ist sein dA?nischer Freund Per Goodman im Tsunami umgekommen. Volker Bethke hat der Witwe geholfen, das Hotel wieder aufzubauen.
Noch liegt die OstkA?ste mit ihren wunderschA?nen StrA?nden im Windschatten des Aufschwungs, aber die Experten sind sich einig: Wenn der Frieden stabil bleibt, werden an den Buchten, die heute den Fischern, den Krabben oder den KA?hen gehA?ren, Millionenprojekte realisiert werden. Die Inder werden kommen, die Russen, ganz sicher die trinkfesten Surfer aus Australien. Nicht auszuschlieAYen, dass dabei einiges vom Charme des alten Ceylon verloren geht.
Bis es soweit ist, setzen an-dernorts pfiffige HA?ndler ganz bewusst auf die Deutschen. Herr Uditha aus Mirissa zum Beispiel hat seinem kleinen Shop, nicht weit vom frisch renovierten “Paradise Beach Club”, einen neuen Namen verpasst: “Aldi Mini Market”. Da verkauft er Tee, GewA?rze und die TA?te Chips fA?r den Fernsehabend im Hotel an Touristen. Das berA?hmte LA?cheln der Insel gibt es dazu, gratis und im Dauerangebot.
An dieser Stelle ist ein deutsches mini Forum geplant, aber nur bei Interesse
Ein paar alte Pressestimmen in Deutsch sind bereits vorhanden, s. Link rechts (Navigation)
Eine Auswahl ist allerdings auch hier abgedruckt:
von VOLKER KLINKMA?A?LLER
Es gibt immer wieder Menschen, die ihrer Zeit voraus sind. Wie den Briten Lee Blackmore, der sein Hotel in der Arugam Bay schon 1999 “Tsunami” benannt hat. Damals wussten die meisten noch gar nicht, was das A?A?berhaupt ist.
Oder auch der GA?A?rtner des weiter hinten am Strand gelegenen Siam View Hotels: Am Morgen des 26. Dezember hatte sich der alte Mann gegen 8.45 Uhr erdreistet, hartnA?A?ckig alle HotelgA?A?ste zu wecken, was angesichts der vorangegangenen, feuchtfrA?A?hlichen Weihnachtsparty kein besonders leichtes Unterfangen war. Doch der alte Mann hatte das an jenem Tag irgendwie merkwA?A?rdige Meer beobachtet. Er war A?A?berzeugt, dass groA?A?es Unheil nahte. Dies lieA?A? dann mit bis zu 15 Meter hohen Flutwellen auch nicht mehr lange auf sich warten. Dank der Vorwarnung A?A?berlebten alle 165 GA?A?ste, doch ringsherum gab es massenhaft Tote und Verletzte und nur noch eine einzige TrA?A?mmerwA?A?ste – wie fast an der gesamten OstkA?A?ste, die auf Sri Lanka am schlimmsten von der Naturkatastrophe betroffen war. Kaum zu glauben, dass es hier heute schon wieder Urlauber gibt.
Sie wohnen in den wieder hergerichteten Resten der Bungalowanlagen. Nicht wenige sind durch eine Mauer oder einen Sichtschutz von der umgebenden, bedrA?A?ckenden Tristesse aus zerborstenen Mauern, KloschA?A?sseln und Palmen abgegrenzt. Und vielleicht wissen die meisten GA?A?ste sogar, dass sie hier mitten auf einem Leichenfeld urlauben. Denn damals, als die Eile es geboten hatte, wurden viele Todesopfer ganz einfach direkt dort bestattet, wo man sie gefunden hatte. Aber die Besucher dieses Surferparadieses waren schon immer eine besonders hartgesottene Spezies, haben sich nicht einmal durch den BA?A?rgerkrieg und die – in jA?A?ngster Zeit erneut angespannte – politische Lage vom Besuch der Region abhalten lassen. Und schlieA?A?lich gibt es Zeichen der Hoffnung: das beste, erste und einzige Resort mit einem Swimmingpool hat schon wieder erA?A?ffnet. Und direkt am Strand ist aus Naturmaterialien eine ganze neue Generation zweigeschossiger Restaurants entstanden, die mit aller GemA?A?tlichkeit, hA?A?bschem Meeresblick oder sogar einem Joint locken. Auch der erste internationale Surfwettbewerb ist hier wieder ausgetragen worden.
Verglichen mit den Fortschritten an der WestkA?A?ste, wirkt dieser Neubeginn an der OstkA?A?ste eher bescheiden. Denn hier hat sich die touristische Infrastruktur schon prA?A?chtig von den Folgen des Tsunami erholt, obwohl die strandnahen UnterkA?A?nfte ganz unterschiedlich betroffen waren. Viele hatten einfach nur GlA?A?ck, weil sie wie das legendA?A?re Kolonialhotel “Mount Lavinia” im gleichnamigen Badeort auf einem Felsen erhA?A?ht schon immer A?A?ber der tosenden See thronten. Andere wiederum blieben vA?A?llig verschont, weil die Fluten in eigenartigen Verwirbelungen die KA?A?ste entlangschwappten, so dass die eine Bucht schwer verwA?A?stet wurde, wA?A?hrend die benachbarte ohne SchA?A?den davonkam. Auch gab es Schicksale wie das des gediegenen “Kani Lanka & Spa”-Resorts bei Kalutara. Das groA?A?e, innovative Designerhotel hatte erst 48 Stunden vor dem Tsunami erA?A?ffnet und war schwer verwA?A?stet worden. Nun empfA?A?ngt es wieder GA?A?ste, ohne dass auch nur der geringste durch die Naturkatastrophe entstandene Schaden zu sehen wA?A?re.
A?A?berhaupt sind bis hinunter in den SA?A?den fast alle Hotels, Pensionen und Restaurants lA?A?ngst zum Normalbetrieb zurA?A?ckgekehrt. Die groA?A?en, vor allem am traumhaft schA?A?nen Palmenstrand von Bentota konzentrierten Pauschalhotels haben ihre Gartenanlagen weitestgehend entsalzen. Die Beseitigung der Tsunami-SchA?A?den wurde meist fA?A?r eine verlockende Aufwertung ihrer Bungalows, Zimmer oder Suiten genutzt, was zum Teil sogar schon mit Belegungsquoten bis zu 70 Prozent belohnt wird. Die Preise sind nach dem Tsunami wider Erwarten nicht gA?A?nstiger geworden. Das nach Indonesien am schlimmsten von der Tsunami-Katastrophe betroffene Land rechnet fA?A?r die angelaufene Hochsaison sogar mit einem neuen Besucherrekord!
Obwohl traditionelle ReisemA?A?rkte wie Deutschland erst langsam auf den Vorjahresstand zurA?A?ckkehren, verzeichnet die offizielle Besucherstatistik des Landes von Januar bis September bereits ein Wachstum um 8 Prozent, sodass die Zahl auslA?A?ndischer Touristen fA?A?r 2005 zum dritten Mal eine halben Million A?A?berschreiten dA?A?rfte.
Auf eine baldige RA?A?ckkehr der Touristen hatte auch Abdul Azeez gesetzt und macht als derzeit einziges SzenecafA?A? beste GeschA?A?fte in der Altstadt von Galle. “Beim Tsunami war das Meer sogar bis an die Zinnen unserer historischen Stadtbefestigung angestiegen, doch nach innen ist kaum etwas gedrungen”, sagt der 23-jA?A?hrige GrA?A?nder von “PedlarA?a??E?s Inn Cafe”. So hat die imposante Befestigungsanlage als wichtigste kulturhistorische SehenswA?A?rdigkeit des SA?A?dens A?A?berlebt und sich trotz Besucherflaute der letzte Trend fortgesetzt, immer mehr Nostalgiebauten mit stilvollen UnterkA?A?nften und LuxusgeschA?A?ften zu beleben. Davon zeugen das im GefA?A?ngnis geplante 49-Zimmer-Hotel, das bereits in einer ehemaligen Druckerei erA?A?ffnete Hotel “The Fort Printers” und vor allem das exklusive “Amangalla Resort” im einstigen “New Oriental Hotel”: Es gehA?A?rt zur renommierten Amani-Gruppe, die bei Tangalla mit dem “Amanvella Resort” sogar noch einen weiteren exklusiven Meilenstein an die KA?A?ste gesetzt hat. Obwohl es mit dem Charme von Bunkerarchitektur ausgestattet wurde, ist es nun mit Bungalowpreisen um die 900 US-Dollar pro Nacht das teuerste Hotel der Insel.
A?A?berall lassen sich betuchte AuslA?A?nder wieder durch die begehrten, fA?A?r die Insel typischen Ayurveda-Kuren verwA?A?hnen. Doch wer nachfragt, bekommt schnell zu spA?A?ren, dass der Schock und der Schmerz, die die Naturkatastrophe hinterlassen hat, noch lA?A?ngst nicht A?A?berwunden sind. Erstaunlich unbefangen berichten die Menschen von ihrem persA?A?nlichen Tsunami-Schicksal – dem schweren Verlust von geliebten AngehA?A?rigen, Freunden und Nachbarn, der Behausung, den wenigen BesitztA?A?mern oder einfach dem unbeschwerten LebensgefA?A?hl.
Als wenn es gerade erst passiert wA?A?re, erzA?A?hlen sie, wie sich das Meer plA?A?tzlich zurA?A?ckzog und die zuckenden Fische bizarr im strahlenden Sonnenschein glitzerten, wann und wie hoch die erste Welle kam. Wie Autos und Boote plA?A?tzlich durch die Gegend schossen – und wie sie sich mit viel GlA?A?ck oder Geistesgegenwart retten konnten, wA?A?hrend um sie herum die Apokalypse tobte.
Die neue Lichtorgel der beliebten, nun am Strand von Unawatuna drA?A?hnenden Diskothek “Happy Banana” kann unheimliche Assoziationen wecken, wenn sie mit ihren langen, geisterhaften Lichtfingern A?A?ber die Wellen der Bucht fegt, als wA?A?rde sich da drauA?A?en wieder etwas zusammenbrauen. Manch Restaurantbesitzer hA?A?lt die Erinnerung auf seine Weise wach, hat die HA?A?he der Flutwellen an der Wand vermerkt oder einfach die von den Wassermassen gestoppte Uhr hA?A?ngen lassen. Andere legen sogar Fotoalben mit Tsunami-Bildern aus, um ihren GA?A?sten die Wartezeit auf das Essen zu verkA?A?rzen. Muharam Perera indes hat die gesplitterten A?A?berreste eines TA?A?rrahmens in das Foyer ihres Boutique-Resorts “Sun & Sea” gehA?A?ngt. “Dieses StA?A?ck Holz hat mir das Leben gerettet”, betont die 78-jA?A?hrige Lady und hat es in die dazugehA?A?rige Messingtafel gravieren lassen.
Eines Tages soll es auch eine sehr viel grA?A?A?A?ere GedenkstA?A?tte geben: bei dem bekannten Badeort Hikkaduwa. Hier hatten die Flutwellen den berA?A?hmt-berA?A?chtigten Eisenbahnzug umgekippt und mehr als tausend Menschen in den Tod gerissen. Drei zerbeulte, rostbraune Waggons sind am UnglA?A?cksort belassen worden und sollen mA?A?glicherweise Bestandteil eines offiziellen Tsunami-Mahnmals werden. Schon jetzt streifen Scharen in- und auslA?A?ndischer Touristen um die schaurige SehenswA?A?rdigkeit. Sobald Besucher auftauchen, werden sie eifrig belagert und mit geA?A?ffneten HA?A?nden, A?A?berteuerten Souvenirs und herzzerreiA?A?enden Geschichten A?A?berhA?A?uft.
Wesentlich weniger Andrang herrscht bei den SchildkrA?A?tenfarmen. Direkt am Strand gelegen und deshalb besonders schwer von den Flutwellen betroffen, haben sie fast alle einen Neubeginn gewagt. “Doch wir brauchen dringend mehr Touristen”, klagt K. Chandrasiri Abrew als Inhaber der A?A?ltesten und grA?A?A?A?ten “Turtle Hatchery” bei Kosgoda. “Ohne Eintrittsgelder fehlen die Mittel, um die SchildkrA?A?teneier vor Marktverkauf und Verzehr zu retten.” Am Morgen des 26. Dezember hatte der 41-JA?A?hrige noch 900 davon vergraben, nach der Katastrophe aber nur eine einzige von seinen langjA?A?hrig gehegten, geliebten Panzertieren lebend wiedergefunden.
Weitestgehend unbeschadet dagegen haben die vorgelagerten Korallenriffe sowie die zahlreichen Lagunen mit ihren Mangrovenhainen den Tsunami A?A?berstanden. Hier werden lA?A?ngst wieder die gewohnten reizvollen BootsausflA?A?ge ins Landesinnere angeboten. Und auch die legendA?A?ren Fischer von Welligama hocken wieder fotogen auf ihren Stelzen im Meer.
Dennoch hat sich das Erscheinungsbild der KA?A?ste vielerorts verA?A?ndert. Die Galle Road, die von Colombo in den tiefen SA?A?den fA?A?hrt, ist A?A?ber weite Strecken mit massenhaft herbeigeschafften, dunklen Felsbrocken flankiert worden. Trotz dieses neuen Flutschutzes erA?A?ffnet sich – wegen der weitgehend verschwundenen Bebauung mit FischerhA?A?tten und der noch umstrittenen 100-Meter-Regelung der Nichtbebauung – vielerorts ein zugegebenermaA?A?en bestechend freier Ausblick auf den Indischen Ozean. Andernorts finden sich Schichten aus Schutt, MA?A?ll und entwurzelten BA?A?umen. Vereinzelt liegen Schiffswracks herum, die zumeist aus versicherungstechnischen GrA?A?nden noch nicht geborgen worden sind. Ihr Anblick wirkt stets beklemmend und lA?A?sst es etwas befremdlich erscheinen, wenn in der November-Ausgabe des Newsletters der staatlichen FremdenverkehrsbehA?A?rde um Tauchtouristen geworben wird. Das Argument der offiziellen Werbung: “A?a??A? dass mehr als 300 Wracks rund um die Insel herum auf dem Meeresgrund liegen. ” Obwohl damit gewiss schon vor Jahrzehnten versunkene Schiffe gemeint sind, wirkt es fast sarkastisch.
An anderen KA?A?stenabschnitten wiederum wimmelt es nur so von intakten Booten, die die StrA?A?nde landschaftsbildend bedecken. Denn fast jeder, der Sri Lanka nach dem Tsunami helfen wollte, hat zuerst an Fischerboote gedacht. Manch ein KA?A?stenbewohner hat nun sogar schon drei oder vier – oder versteckt sie sogar, um noch mehr zu bekommen.
Die Flutwellen haben auch Geld ins Land gespA?A?lt, doch A?A?ber die Verteilung wird vielerorts lamentiert. Der tiefere Einblick schmerzt Dr. Fred Miller: “Was mich geschafft hat, war nicht die Naturgewalt des Tsunami”, meint der 60-jA?A?hrige Hollandbrite nachhaltig frustriert, “sondern das schlimme Verhalten vieler Menschen nach der Katastrophe.” Die meisten westlichen Mitarbeiter der “Non Goverment Organisations” (NGO), die sich in seiner Hoteloase zwischen leckeren Speisen und frischem Fassbier allabendlich ein Stelldichein geben, schlieA?A?t der GrA?A?nder und Besitzer des “Siam View Hotels” in der Arugam Bay ausdrA?A?cklich mit ein. Im Restaurant verweilende Rotkreuzler hA?A?tten sich kA?A?rzlich sogar geweigert, ein von einer herabfallenden Kokosnuss getroffenes Kind zum Arzt zu fahren, weil sie die Polster ihres GelA?A?ndewagens nicht mit Blut beschmieren wollten.
“In den ersten Tagen nach der Katastrophe haben die Franzosen hier Schlipse und Nachtkleider abgeworfen, die Polen Dosenrindfleisch, das die Einheimischen aus GlaubensgrA?A?nden sowieso nicht anrA?A?hren – und die Amerikaner 28.000 Rollen Klopapier.” SpA?A?ter, erinnert sich Miller, der seit fast dreiA?A?ig Jahren hier lebt und als Tourismuspionier der Arugam Bay gilt, habe ihm einer seiner kompetenten GA?A?ste vorgerechnet, dass eine einzige Toilettenrolle mit Herstellung, Luftfracht und Zoll gleich mehrere US-Dollar kosten wA?A?rde. Auch dass die auslA?A?ndischen HilfskrA?A?fte monatelang die FA?A?nfsternehotels in Colombo ausgebucht und etliches Spendengeld in einen Fuhrpark aus dicken Jeeps gesteckt hA?A?tten, habe Unmut geschA?A?rt. Die geborgenen EssensvorrA?A?te seines Hotels indes seien nach dem Tsunami zu tA?A?glich 500 Gratismahlzeiten fA?A?r die A?A?berlebenden verarbeitet worden.
“Wenn nicht immer nach bA?A?rokratischen Richtlinien vorgegangen wA?A?rde, lieA?A?e sich mit Spendengeldern weitaus Sinnvolleres anfangen”, sagt Miller. Wie zum Beispiel der Aufbau einer geregelten MA?A?llentsorgung, die es in der Arugam Bay bisher noch nicht einmal im Ansatz gibt. Die wA?A?re einer touristischen Infrastruktur dienlich und somit zugleich Wiederaufbau und Existenzsicherung.
taz Nr. 7854 vom 24.12.2005, Seite I-II, 423 Zeilen (TAZ-Bericht), VOLKER KLINKMA?A?LLER
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Saturday, December 30, 2006
The first time I was here was two weeks before the Tsunami in December 2004, and I recall staying at Stardust Hotel and canoeing along the river. Sadly, the hotel and the town were hit quite hard by the Tsunami, both losing lives.
The next day we have the opportunity to visit Kumana National Park, but I’m keener to enjoy some of the sea views and visit a few nearby temples than visit a bird sanctuary. It’s also about thirty kilometres from the hotel, my beach is in front of me, and my first temple, which is dated as 2nd BC, is 4 kilometres away. The location is on a very wide beach, and its history is linked to Princess Devi being washed up at the location and a temple being built. This is one of a few locations around Sri Lanka of such incidents . 
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