Meanwhile, our horizon was widening. From Mount Lavinia we graduated to locations further down the coast. Surfing trips were now regular weekend affairs. We would gather at dawn on a Saturday or Sunday morning and head south, checking out waves in Moratuwa, Pinwatte, Paiyagala and Closenberg Bay, Galle. Mike was not able to join us on all the trips, but he would very kindly make his surfboards available. Mike finally stopped the surfing activity altogether and we all missed him very much. A few years later he chose to lead the life of an ascetic and lived that way until his death.
Our means of transport for travelling to surfing spots were either Faiz Ahmed’s mini-van, with four boards strapped on the roof and the gang packed inside, or Anil Amarasekera’s trusty Land Rover, which was a bit more spacious.
The sun would be coming up behind the tops of coconut trees as we trudged towards the beach, past local residents going about their morning ablutions. Children would greet us with cheerful shouts: “kalu suddho enavo” (black whiteys are coming). This was because we were bare-chested Sri Lankans clad in beach shorts and wearing rubber sandals, the kind of look only foreigners would affect.
When the surf was good, we would be out at sea for a good three to four hours. At the end of an exhausting but thrilling session a very tired and dehydrated group of surfers would rush to the nearest milk booth - often drinking the booth dry.
It was a big thrill to know that we were the very first local surfers in the country. We would get into furious competitions as to who would be the first to perfect the various styles and manoeuvres surfers perform on their boards while riding a wave. I wanted to be the first to stand on my head. This was accomplished after several attempts, but the experience lasted only a few seconds and was never repeated. I rolled off the front of the board and the back end tipped over and whacked me on the head as I surfaced for air!
Pinwatte became our preferred surfing destination, because of its proximity to Colombo. Anil used his persuasive charm with the Pinwatte railway station master to store our surfboards in his house. When no vehicles were available, some members of the gang would go surfing by catching an early-morning train and get off at Pinwatte station.
Jan Vanden Driesen recalls an interesting encounter at Pinwatte. A local politician came by to talk to us. He could not understand what we were doing and why we were doing it. Puzzled and shaking his head, he muttered: “Well, anyway, it’s good to see our Sinhalese boys doing this kind of stuff.”
Jan was amused and promptly engaged the politician to explain the cultural diversity of the group.
"He's a Muslim," he said (pointing to Faiz), "He's a Tamil (Niranjan), these two are Sinhalese (Anil and Asita), and I'm a Burgher."
The confused and embarrassed politician quickly went his way.
With increasing experience at sea came increasing recklessness.
Closenberg Bay, in Galle, one of our favourite destinations, is ringed by granite boulders. Rather than taking the time to paddle out from the beach, we would often clamber down the steep slope by the side of the Closenberg Hotel premises and jump off the rocks into the sea. This was no small feat when you were carrying a board 10 feet in length and weighing 40 pounds, and timing your leap to the split second before the next wave struck.
This radical Closenberg rock descent was abandoned after Jan Prins narrowly missed being seriously injured when a wave caught him just before he made the jump. His plunge had been delayed by a few critical seconds when the board got stuck between two rocks. When Jan abandoned the board and dived into the approaching wave, the surge dragged him back onto a rock. Luckily, it was smooth and generously rounded and his back collided with the rock while the wave rushed on. Although dazed and bruised he scrambled up the rocks before the next wave struck. The precious board came through with a few “dings”, or ruptures, on its fibre-glass skin.
As the ’60s drew to an end, the original gang broke up as many of the members headed overseas to pursue education and employment opportunities. The surfing continued, but less frequently. Eventually careers, marriage, parenting and other responsibilities took over, and the sun finally set on the gang’s glorious days of surfing in Sri Lanka.
Sadly, this wonderful sport has never really caught on with later generations of Sri Lankans. A few locals living down south have learnt the art and practise it at Narigama, near Hikkaduwa, the best-known surf spot on the south coast. These youngsters have been influenced by Australian surfers who are regulars at this spot, and some of the more enterprising among them run surfing tours for Japanese tourists on the southern and eastern coasts of the island.
There is a modern day twist to this surfing saga.
When the tsunami hit Sri Lanka on December 26, 2004, it left little untouched wherever it struck, including our surfboards.
Anil Amarasekera, guardian of the surf boards, had stored them in the garage of a holiday bungalow near Arugam Bay, one of Sri Lanka’s most famous surfing havens. The surge of water destroyed the garage and snatched away two of the boards and dumped them in a paddy field two kilometres away. The car in the garage ended up 10 feet in the air, wedged between two Palmyrah trees. The lost surfboards were subsequently retrieved - with hardly a scratch on them.
If the gang ever decides to get together again on a beach somewhere in Sri Lanka, armed with surfboards, it would be a much smaller group, and the feelings of nostalgia would be tinged with sadder emotions. It would be more of an “in memoriam” outing. Five members of the crew are no more. They are the late Astika Botejue, Peter Dharmaratne, Gihan Jayatileka, Cedric Martensteyn, and Niranjan Sinnatamby.
Those of us survivors from the original group include five who are now based overseas: Wendell Flamer Caldera and Jan Vanden Driesen (Australia), Jan Prins and Ananda Ranasinghe (United States), and the writer (Pakistan). Only Faiz Ahmed, Anil Amarasekera and Asita Tennekoon have stayed consistently within the shores of Sri Lanka.
These days the only active surfers from the original gang are the two Jans - Jan Prins, who lives in Hawaii, a surfer's paradise, and Jan Vanden Driesen, who has settled in Perth, Australia, where surfing is a popular recreational pursuit. Meanwhile, others "have a go" at this wonderful activity whenever opportunities arise.
The writer is a management consultant, and is currently based in Karachi
ISSN: 1391 - 0531 Sunday, December 17, 2006 Vol. 41 - No 29 Plus